Sunday, March 17, 2013

44 Mayberry?

    The last title "Almost persuaded"  from the old gospel call to altar gives you some idea where our mind is going with this Stillwell dilemma.  This is the problem with having preconceived ideas or relying to much on other well intentioned information.  Now I'm beginning to feel like Patty Hearst. and I don't think Jimmy Carter is going to pardon me so I had better figure it out for myself.   Remember we drove in the park, formed an immediate opinion to stay two days, we now have been here 5 days, I look at our map of the Big Bend park here are the notes in the corner,( Sat fish fry and dance Marathon 5:30 and trail riders start arriving. Sun 11;00 Whitfords 30 minute gospel music and pot luck with trail riders, Monday  BarBQ wtih trail riders) I think I'm persuaded, we like it here.
Stillwell RV, Store and Museum

     Let me see if I can give you an example to help you understand what happened here.  The first time you tuned into Andy Griffith show,  what "if" instead of a quaint village the back drop would have been an RV park 100 miles from nowhere surrounded by rocky hard ground and cactus.  And then you met all the "characters" in the first episode without hearing their stories.  Would you have tuned in again?  That's what happened here.  Now after just a few days we have grown to love this magnificent area and marvel at the scenery.  Then we started to meet the "characters" and hear their stories. 
Caption choice?  Ruthie, Waiting for Breakfast
Or Memorizing the Equine Liability warning?      
     Here we go Stillwell RFD, 
       I promised I was going to tell you about the museum.   It is to honor the life of Hallie Stillwell, the matriarch of the Stillwell clan. At the age of  twelve she drove her families covered wagon to Alpine Texas,  later she taught school in Presidio earning extra pay because of the Poncho Villa danger.  In 1918 she married Roy Stillwell a Texas rancher, he ranched over 20,000 acres and was twice her age.  Roy died in 1948 and her skills and grit allowed her not only to survive but to succeed and become a legend.  
Correct answer: Barbie bringing breakfast!
        Her resume would include teacher, rancher newspaper columnist, author, justice of the peace and the one she preferred was ranch woman.  She was named "A Yellow Rose" by the Texas governor and her passing was covered by the New York Times when she passed away in 1997 two months short of her 100th birthday.  Do yourself a favor do some research on her life.   We will call it the Miss Hallie influence. Either directly thru her descendents or just the memories floating around this RV park.  Then we start adding the characters,  every time we stopped in the store we meet a new character behind the counter, sitting inside or on the store porch.  At first we didn't know if they were an employee, Stillwell family,  volunteer or a guest that happened to know the procedure and was helping out.  It's confusing but important to the background info.  We have already introduced Barbie, she started coming to help her best friend and co-worker Nan, and continued on thru her terminal illness.  Just a delightful fun person, it is fun to see her and Kay interact.  You have also met some of the RV guests in previous posts, each guest comes with their own unique story.  The next time you drop in the store to get a breakfast sandwich or "Nan's" burrito, ( they are wonderful, the Whitfords have even made a singing commercial "Eating Nan's burritos " that they interject into their 
segment.) you meet Keith, we found out he came from Minnesota (doesn't make him a bad person.) a couple of years ago to help out during the winters when construction shuts down in Minnesota.  I heard that when he found out about the opening at the park his phone call to Kay went something like this. "Now why and the hell would I want to come down there?   Evidently he heard something he liked, he does about everything from helping out at the store to bulldozing the horse trails. His Paradise acres and bonfires are a hit with everyone.   Wait, who is this behind the counter John or Pam and you find out they are volunteers.  John also does black smith demonstrations out by the bunkhouse and Pam has added some of her paintings to the museum.   Volunteers normally help out a few hours in exchange consideration for parking their RV's, a pretty nice trade off.   Then there is Ethelene from nearby Alpine TX she has a special relationship with the Stillwell clan and has been here for years.  
     February 8th we tried to relax and enjoy the park atmosphere.  We toured "Hallies" museum and watched some DVDs on Hallie, Nan ( her granddaughter) and ranching in the big bend area.  It is hard to

Some of the "character's playing Bocce ball?  John thought perhaps the first time it had been played here!
imagine how these pioneers lived, everything and everyone you came with could render injury or death.   The drought brought ranching to a point where the government purchased cattle and had them destroyed so they wouldnt' starve to death.  I was particularly moved by one family that was interviewed for the film.  Hard working people struggling to make a living and keep their ranch.  It takes a 100 acres to support a cow and calf.  If this were true in Minnesota my father could have only raised 3 head of cattle.  Most have to work off the ranch to keep it running, maybe someday people will appreciate where their food comes from. Makes you think.  Inquiring about the family in the film I heard that the father had been killed by a flash flood while herding cattle on his ranch.  Very sobering.  I was told that sometimes the only warning of a flash flood will be a thunder cloud on a distant mountain.  
     Evidently Nan was a great story teller, it is great they have these memories of her life.  I will share one that Nan told on herself on the DVD.  The National park had directed a lady to the Stillwell's, after calling and getting directions she found the her way there after dark, she was greeted by Nan and her step dad, evidently because of her illness (Kay mistakenly kept telling everyone she had a stroke.)  her speech, and the demeanor of her step father turned "Mary" off.  She left almost as quickly as she had arrived.  As soon as she had cell service, she called Big Bend to give them a piece of her mind.  Unfortunately she had hit redial and Nan heard a disgusted  "Why in the world did you send us to the bates motel?"  Years later she was telling her "crazy Mary" story during one of her story telling sessions and all of a sudden she pointed to a woman in the audience she said Oh my god "your that lady".  Evidently she finally got it also. 
     Sitting with us watching the DVDs was new couple to the park, Bob and Sondra had recently arrived, we found out at one time they had spent five years sailing around the world with their children, home schooling along the way with a few stops in different country's for some formal education.  Then later in life they spent 12 years living and sailing on their boat.  Until Bob jokes "Sondra tricked him into buying a house. Now they are starting to do RV travels.  People like this are so interesting..      
      I think John and Karen were concerned about our eating habits and invited us over for dinner.  Home made beef stew and fresh biscuits sitting at a real table in their mobile home, what a treat.   They have been coming here for six years, and I can finally say "I get it".
    We then gathered at Hallie's museum listening, singing and dancing to Eldon and Ann's renditions some of them  "T for Texas,  "infamous Angel" ( Nan's favorite) and of course closing as always with one of my favorite's Happy Trails. 

Friday, March 15, 2013

43 Almost Persuaded

    I think Ruthie went into parenting mode when she met Ashley thinking of our daughters, what if they were out on the road like this?
     She (Ashley not Ruthie) once took a year long survival course in Wisconsin.  Or maybe just being in Wisconsin for a year is survival training enough.  Sorry couldn't pass that up. With no prior long distance riding she purchased a bicycle and started out on a cross country trip.  California to Florida, she had already had many challenges including the every present Texas thorns puncturing her tires.   Learning that she was planning on riding into the park to see hot springs and knowing the difficult terrain Ruthie offered to take her on the trike.      
Trikes don't lean, must be the road?
    They spent the day exporing  Big Bend and a dip in the hot springs there.  I spent the day exploring the RV park, meeting new people, trying not to be a nuisance and checking on the ladies progress with the spot tracker.  It gave me some comfort knowing where they were.  I thought at one point they were on the way home and then the computer told me they were headed for the basin.  It looks like Ruthie is determined to show her the works.  I believe the next subject is considered heresay so I don't think it is admissible in court.   I heard that Ashley had seen all the pretty rocks and wondered if she could have one?  Oh sure some one said,  they have so many!  Our RV neighbors are now referring to it as the illegal rock collection.  One of them said he thought their were micro gps’s chips in them similar to our spot tracker, do we dare go thru border checks?  Last word we heard Ashley was spending some time in Austin TX.  She hoped to find a part time job for a few weeks before continuing on to Florida.  Her mother was planning on meeting her in the Florida panhandle and riding the last 500 miles home with her.   Ashley had suggested she start riding to prepare for the ride.     .
  If you would like to read Ashley's journey.  Here is her blog address.  http://thejourneytotheeast.tumblr.com/  Ashley we are glad we got to meet you.  Safe travels!
Ruthie enjoying the Hot Springs
      The next morning it was my turn.   Ruthie had said I would be impressed with the roads she had been on.  Especially since she was dealing with some discomfort with her clutch hand stemming from her dancing injury.  First on her list was the Hot springs, we had been warned by John and Karen that the road trail to the spring was pretty rough, rough indeed.  A rocky path off the main road, then it split into a one way circle drive almost a mile long.  Looking thru the windshield of the last picture you can see a ridge going completely across the picture.  That is the road coming back out, really a ledge similar to the one we are taking in.  Sheer drop off, that's why the warning for no trailers,campers or vehicles with dual wheels. 
     On the path to the hot springs their was a warning against possessing or purchasing items from Mexican Nationals.  The rock walls we walked beside looked like they had been stacked there and could fall at any time.
     When we arrived at the springs it was filled, over 30 youngsters with their chaperones were canoeing the river and had stopped for a break.  Fortunately they left within moments and we had the hot springs to our selves.  The water coming out is 104 degrees and was once the site of a two story bath house.  Developed in 1909 by a malaria victim who had supposedly been returned to health by the springs.  Then abandoned in 1912 when it was made unsafe by Mexican bandits ( Poncho Villa?).   They returned in 1927 for more development.
We will return on the opposite wall!
Jesus
Boquillas canyon
    When we left the hot springs we drove to the Boquillas canyon parking lot. This turned out to be quite a walk for Ruthie, her knee seemed to be doing well.  We had been told to look for the singing Mexican.  It was a steep climb from the parking lot to the ridge of the canyon.  We seen horse prints on the path and found out later that the Mexcans across the river used the horse's to dash across the river to collect their money from their collection points or replenish the supply of trinkets or the every famous decorated walking sticks.   Today the singing Mexican was Jesus,  he has been doing it for nine years.  We asked if he wasn't worried about the border patrol.  He showed us some binoculars he keeps and eye on the trail with and said they normally only come as far as the parking lot.  I understand them not wanting to do the trek up the canyon to check on one musical visitor. 
   On the way home we swung by the ranger station to touch bases with home.   An added treat at the ranger station.  A young man rode in on a motorcycle with his dog balancing on the back.  He then waited patiently for his master to return.  The young fellow said he had rode all the way to Oklahoma with the dog perched on the rear.  He said he has only fallen off once, thinks he fell asleep. 
     We spent a little to long on the phone and got to enjoy a desert sunset as we rode home.   It also gave us some time to reflect on the last few days.  The RV park was starting to grow on us and there was a dance on Saturday.  I had also heard some one talking about a major trail ride event.
    So, if our meds have arrived, do we leave?.

Wednesday, March 13, 2013

42 Still @ Stillwell's

Febuary 5th 
Deserted La Linda
     We worked on paperwork for our business most of the morning.  Then we got on the trike and headed straight East from Stillman's on #2427, from the map we knew it dead ends at the Rio. This is the spot our travel advisers had teased us about, the warning of the Mexican with a machine gun.  A pleasant ride to the river with "sweepers"  allowing us to enjoy the buttes all around as we drove.  We soon reached the "dead end" it used to be an international crossing before the government closed it.  It seems that they don't think of the financial and emotional consequences to business's and families on both sides of the border when they close an access.  The crossing known as the La Linda international bridge and The Hallie Stillwell Memorial Bridge was at one time a busy crossing for families and business's.  On the other side of the river was once a large mining town, they mined fluorspar.   Now the entire village and mining facility appeared to be deserted.  In the distance we seen a church that reportedly had been used only once before the town folded.  We spent some time scanning the deserted properties with binoculars.  Always sad to see things that don't work out,  What happened to the people that relied on the income source this plant provided.  What about the families with relatives on both sides of the border.   Since 911 there is not a border crossing in the entire big Bend area.  On the US side it is now over 450 miles between crossings. 
La Linda mission
     Checking at the store we were disappointed to find out our "meds" had not arrived.  Are we going to have to stay here longer?
     We had met Janet and Dave, RV'ers who ranch in South Dakota, and Richard and Jan from Massachusetts (compassionate man, he puts out water and food for the birds every morning.) it seems they have been coming here for years.  What's the deal here, I'm thinking the Stockholm syndrome?  There has to be a reason they keep coming back, but I don't care, soon as our meds show up we are out of here.  Our new acquaintances,(wasn't going to be sucked into friends then it would be hard to leave) let us know where we could get cell phone service.  It's easy, drive six miles back to the main road. turn right, find the brown park sign and stand under it.  On our ride to the "service area"  we met a young lady on a bicycle pulling a trailer behind her.  We kind of both did a little sigh, like bless her heart.  It is very hilly
here.  
Under the local phone booth!
     We reached the designated sign.  Of course they were right, I tested it, I climbed higher on the fence line, no service, I stood on the trike seat, no service, I guess it's a magic sign. Unfortunately the news wasn't good.  Evidently the Mayo clinic pharmacy has some issues.  Maybe you've had problems like this, you feel at their mercy, well you are. Follow this if you can.  My meds had been ready when we were in the Alamo 7 days ago but Ruthies weren't,  they promised to have her's ready and send them both on Friday 5 days ago.  The phone call revealed that Ruthie's had been sent, however mine hadn't been sent yet.  No problem we would do what our new acquaintenvces do while they travel.  Wise people, they just have the perscription sent to a local pharmacy and pick it up.  Okay lets do that.  Evidently our insurer wants to retain control.  Sure we can do it that way Ma'am, however it will cost you more and we will give you fewer meds.   Yup, they have control.    The clueless voice on the other end had also suggested that since we were going to be traveling Texas for a while yet, she could have them sent to Stillwell's with no special delivery fee and we could just drive back and get them.  Evidently she is used to a smaller state.  This is Texas my friend.
The Stillwells have to travel 75 miles to get supplies and 4 hours to a major box store.  We ended our frustrating call by yielding to the special delivery charge and a promise of expedited service, oh wait that was the same promise we got 6 days ago. I apologize, but it does get frustrating.   I'm better now.  
     When we returned to Stillwell's there was the bicyclist,  Ashley is traveling from San Diego to Daytona Florida, Ruthie immediately invited her to the museum for the special music tonight.
   The Whitfords are the couple that we met in Bandera that had invited us here and I was anxious to hear there musical offering.  Their story is the first trip to Stillwell's they were just guests and now they return every year to preform.  ( I still don't get it?  I'm glad we are leaving as soon as our "meds" show up.) .This was right up my alley, old country songs, modern country and songs of the range.  It turned into a singalong.   They were very entertaining,  soothing music and a great couple, thanks for the entertainment Eldon and Ann.  They were joined on a couple of songs by a lady that used to sing at local honky tonks.  We met her nephew Lynn who has a ranch neighboring the Stillwells.   Every one was friendly and they invited us to a local dance Saturday night. (Didn't matter we wouldn't be here.) And then closing with "Happy trails to you" it couldn't have been better.  Then outside for a campfire and surprise birthday party for Barbie.  This is a fun group!
     I will sleep well tonight! 

Monday, March 11, 2013

41 Stillwell's


     A request!   I would like you to keep in mind that these posts are a thought process.  For that reason I ask that you read all the posts regarding a subject such as Stillwell's before you form an opinion
  .  We registered quickly at the office taking note of the posted warning releaving the establishment of any liability if the participant in an equine event is killed or injured.  Interesting, yup two days and we are out of here.  Barbie directed us to the East end of the RV park and we found a little spot at the end of the row.  As we set up the camper we discovered there was pepper all over.  Evidently it had opened during the trip.  As soon as Ruthie stops sneezing we will continue.  We asked a neighbor which way the wind came from so we could point our door opening away from it.
    When our sit up was done we wandered up to the museum to attend the Super bowl party. ( I know, what's a museam doing in an RV park. Later Okay. I promise I won't forget.)   Now what is going on in these pictures?  There is someone stationed at the door of the museum,  then you have Kay ( a Stillwell) holding the thermal cup with the torqouise ring and I think she is hollering something.   Now in this picture we have Barbie in the white sweatshirt with her usual smile and there we see a man holding up the corner of the store.  Wait I know!  We used to play this game at youth fellowship when I was a youngster.  It's called telephone.  Someone inside the museum, ( sounds like two voices in there) yells somethng, then the man at the door repeats it, then Kay, now Barbie (Barbie is loud enough she bypasses the man holding the store up) and we hear someone on the other side repeat it.   This went back and forth for a while as they transmitted information to get the satellite positioned so we would be able to see the game in the Museum.   Two days and we are gone.  Note to self, don't get to close to this group.
     Inside the museum were tables full of warm Texas food,  we joined in, and were introduced to some of the group gathered there.   We only watched a little of the game, our team was back in Minnesota licking their wounds and planning for next year.  And we probably felt a little out of place and it had been a long day for us already.  When we reached our camper we seen a javelina and her two baby pigs go across the road.
  It didn't take long to get to sleep however I was up by 3:45, trying to not disturb anyone I carried the laptop and set on the porch of the store.  It took a while to find a place to plug it in.  I worked on the blog until morning, it was peaceful here, a crescent moon and a sky full of stars.  I wish it was a little warmer, the temperatures head south pretty quickly when the sun sits.
     February 4th
   Since we were only going to be here a couple of days we wanted to explore the Big Bend Park next door.  During the night a couple from Michigan had set up across the path from us.  Nice people John and Karen,  they had a 1500 Gold Wing motorcycle they pulled behind their camper.   They gave us some hints on places to visit in the park, it seems they have been stopping at Stillwell's for years and try and include it on their winter trips.  I don't get it? 


     As we were leaving the campgrounds we seen them getting ready to ride to the park.  We hated to bother them but thought we would pull over and see if they minded if we tagged along.   They were agreeable and we followed them into the Park.  The park has a 45 mph speed limit and because of the size (800,000 acres, bigger than Rhode Island) it takes a while to travel between the different sights.


     Our first stop was the main ranger station, John and Karen knew the drill and stopped here to make all their phone calls.  That's right, no cell service at Stillwell's at least it will only be a couple of days.  They have a few examples of dinosour bones found in the park.  In the top picture I'm pointing out for my grandson where the thigh bone standing behind me goes on the real deal.  The other picture is the wing sturcture.
 
   We headed out of the headquarters and headed west,  we were headed for the Chisos Basin.  We stopped at a pull out to visit and rest.  I seen a sign warning that we were in Bear and Lion country.  I told them if we seen one to try and feed it one of their sandwiches and I would get a picture for them.  Karen said she was going to throw it at our trike, Yup there are always hidden flaws.  When I seen my notes the word "sweeper"  popped out at me.
      In motorcycle language it is used to describe a long gentle curve that allows you to maintain your speed.  Thinking back I thought that can't be right, these were steep narrow turns with severe penalties on both sides.  Either a drop off our a jagged rock wall.  What gives?   Then it dawned on me.  It was a real sweeper, a large motorized slow moving road block.  We arrived just in time to follow this monster up the mountain. 
     Because of the three wheels we are doing fine,  John is doing a great job of going this slow and maintaining balance.  Finally we found a spot to rest and let the sweeper get further ahead so we didn't have to creep up the mountain.  Ruthie had been snapping pictures on the entire climb and due to the slow speed the rock cliffs above us seem even more dramatic.       We dismounted at the Basin lodge and borrowed their patio to eat our lunch,  surrounded by massive rock formations, it would be hard to beat this setting.  Finishing lunch we followed our tour guides out of the basin,  The basin is popular among star gazers as their is very little ambient light to interfere with your night vision. 

Our next stop was Santa Elena Canyon overlook, the road wound its way down to the Castolon visitor center next to the Rio Grande.  From there we traveled West along the Rio Grande to the canyon overlook.  The sight was amazing the sheer canyon walls rising over 1500 feet straight up from the river.   There is a path with some steps and rocks leading a ways up the side of the canyon.  Today Ruthie surprised me. 


      I know of her fear of heights, even more so her caring side extends that fear to anyone she is with.  We climbed quite a distance up the path,  Ruthie's knee is getting stronger every day.




Ruthie was not at ease until everyone was back on the canyon floor.  We knew we had to head back to beat darkness, stopping only long enough to make some phone calls at the Park head quarters.  It was approximately 90 miles out of the park and back to Stillwell's.

   We stopped at the store to check on our medicine, none yet, a motorcycle part showed up. Maybe tomorrow.  A very full day, it was time to rest.  I know Ruthie has to be tired after holding this rock in place on the mountain. 

Sunday, March 10, 2013

40 Border travel

ROPA?  clothing for sale?
     Our next planned stay was the Stillwell Ranch and RV by the Big Bend Park nearly 500 miles away, and yes we would still be in Texas. Huge state.  We were planning on traveling the US side of the border along the Rio Grande River.  Since we were traveling alone we had been cautioned to travel during daylight hours, use filling stations in populated areas and we didn't think the "don't pick up hitchhikers" applied to us. 

It's not always sunny, but still no rain!
     February first we started out on Highway  83 we headed West until it turned North following the Rio grande we were seeing border patrol vehicles quite often now and passing thru inspections stations by every border crossing area.  I seen a nice herd of Brahman cattle just as we approached an inspection stop, I didn't think it would be wise to do a U-turn in plain view of the station.  I didn't think the German shepherd could catch us, however I would give the patrol vehicles an even chance.  I think their helicopter standing by would probably do the trick.  I would get my picture some other day.
     We passed thru the inspection area's quickly.  Evidently we didn't look like drug smugglers or aliens.  Sometimes we thought we were in the middle of filming an episode of "bad boys" or America's most wanted.   It is a little intimidating as you approach and all the high tech scanners are pointed your way and then the German shepherd circles your vehicle.  
       We had been told not to miss the Roma High School along the way.  It was huge, resembling a major college campus.
Typical Texas cemetary
      Not wanting to be stuck at night between major cities we stopped early at Laredo.  Made a bad decision here, tried to get a screen protector, called to check on availability and of course when we got there they didn't have one.  Maybe stubborn but once I decide on something it is hard to shut it off, two hours later we had a screen protector.  A stop at an ice cream store helped settle me down, comfort food my favorite thing.
   The next day we continued our travels changing to highway 277  at Camzo springs.  As we traveled we kept gazing across at Mexico across the river to our left.  I think in my mind I had been expecting a river like our Mississippi so it was quite a shock to see how little water there was at times.    Again we stopped early in Del Rio, even had time for a nap.  That felt good maybe this traveling is running us down?
     Super bowl Sunday morning we headed out, just north of town we took highway 90,  our goal was to get to Stillwell's tonight.  Before we committed we wanted to make sure they had a place we could watch the Super Bowl,  Barbie (our Stillwell contact.) assured us we could, in fact they were having a Super Bowl party.  This must be a more civilized place then I had been thinking.   The next morning we turned onto hwy 90, I was starting to be comfortable with this Texas landscape,  at first the lack of  shade trees and plush green grass bothered me.  But now I decided I could live here.  Lots of open area, mostly rocky with small scrub trees and brush. 
Guarding the border
     We have been hearing that grandson Colton asks if Gram-ma and Gram-pa are still in Texas, cute.
Jet Pilot?
     We have been very fortunate on this trip to get travel advice from many people, on this leg we had received good ideas form "forum George" and a new internet friend Bob from Canada, (currently in Florida.) I'm beginning to wonder who keeps the lights on in Canada from October thru April.   Here are a couple of examples of the notes we receive.  "Not sure there is a road number but only one road. If you get to Study Butte, you have passed it by 15 miles...ha ha There is a nice cafe, cabins, camping, etc there....you will be surprised."  Or  "just before you get to the Park entrance takes you to the Stillwell Ranch...then go on down to the bridge to Mexico...You can not cross....Mexican soldier is there with a machine gun...ha ha but you can look at the river.."   and with these bits of advice, maps and the internet we adjust our travels,  sometimes we are lost and just stumble on neat places.
Amistad Recreation Area on the Pecos River
   
     At one point we were behind a Semi that had been traveling slower than the posted.  As we peaked a hill we could see for miles down the hill and across the other side,  we made our move about the same time he did.  Never pass a loaded semi going down hill.  That load he's carrying gives him great acceleration.   Seventy, seventy five, eighty?  Last I seen it was eighty five as we pulled around him.  Of course now I realize he was speeding up to make the next hill.   And on the up hill side was a passing lane.  Lesson learned!
     We turned into Langtry to visit the Judge Roy Beam museum.  It would be great to have really know this character.  Skirting and sometimes breaking the law all his life he ended up squatting on a railroad right of way erecting his saloon and becoming a Justice of the peace.  He called himself the "Law west of the Pecos" and had a reputation for adjusting the fines to whatever the accused had in his pockets.  He sentenced two men to death and then secretly arranged for them to escape.  Although legally not able to grant divorces he did so for $10.00, he charged $5.00 for marriages and his parting blessing was "May God have mercy on your souls." 
  
       There is a rumor that some of the illegal fines he collected went to help the poor and children with medicine and food.  He said it might help him on judgement day.   He sounds like he was an ornery old cuss, but one of his oddities was his infatuation with Jersey lily a British actress.  He fell in love with a picture of her and claims to have named the town and his saloon after her.  Writing her several times she sent him and the town a fountain for naming it after her.  He didn't like the gift saying everyone here drinks beer.  ( from his saloon and courthouse of course.)  Her visit to the town came  ten months after his death.  She was presented with his pistol.  An interesting story. click "here" for more information. 
     Stopping at Marathon ( last town before Big Bend park) we were fortunate to have a great burger at Johnny B’s.  Around two o'clock there was a small hill with the road cut thru the rock hill.  We knew that the Stillwell lay just ahead.  What lay in store for us there.  Our plan was to wait two days for our mail and medicine form the Mayo clinic to catch up with us.  A couple of trips to the park and we would be on our way.  But tonigt, get registere set up our little home and enjoy the Super Bowl with friends we hadn't met yet. What do they say about the best laid plans?

     This is our path from Alamo to Stillwell's.  Interactive  Map   I just found something interesting, ( at least to me.) the removable graft on the side of the map shows our average speed at reference points. If you hit the play button in the lower left corner it will replay our path.

Friday, March 8, 2013

39 BYOB?


      It was a short ride from Port Isabel to the "Valley"  we were headed for Alamo TX to visit my cousin Sandy and her husband Jerry.  They have been enjoying the sunshine of the valley for many years.  It is a welcome relief from their residence in the middle of Minnesota.  Like many of the Valley residents it probably started out with short visits or like the group we just left in Port Isabel, some came in their RV's then became wrapped up in the activities spending more time each winter.   They moved into more permanent structure's and called it their winter home.  The Valley has accepted them and seen the value of these visitors and have changed the slang "snow birds" to a respectable "Winter Texans"  they even have a publication devoted to them and their activities.
    Someone once said there ain't nothing in the valley but Mexicans and old people!  Reminds me a little of the line from Tom T Halls song."Old dogs, children and watermelon wine."  God bless little children while their to young to hate!  Well I'm here, wonder which one I am?  Mexicans?  Remember Mexicans and native Americans were the first Texans, something to think about.  Old people?  Lets take a look.
     This area is not actually a valley.  It is an area along the Rio Grande as far south as you can go without a passport.  
     Sandy and Jerry were expecting us and soon we were enjoying a delicious lunch and catching up.  One of the questions people contemplating retirement always wonder, is what do you with all your time?  Sandy immediately pulled out her activities calendar, and it seemed from that time until we left we were always doing something.  One sign I seen read, Retired: Nothing to do and I have trouble getting it done by Noon.
     Of course some of it was our hosts showing the local flavor. They had three side trips in mind.  One of the first stops was the Mexican flea market.  I would compare it to a county fair.  Once you find parking you go up and down endless isles.  Commercial type ventures like a western boot store with doors, tents with aisles and aisles of  clothes, electronics, fruits and vegetables, there's a puppy, and some chickens (live), cemetery monuments.  A huge pile of shoes, yes pile. It was very interesting and fun.
Spanish moss is not a parasite like Mistletoe!
      We took a trip to the Santa Ana National wild life refuge,  They advertised Ocelot's and even had pictures so we could identify them from Bob cats, they even had a hot line to call with instructions what to do if we seen one.  Maybe today will be the day!
         At the refuge we climbed on a tour bus and headed toward the border, because of border activity part of the roads were avoided.  The tour guide pointed out the various trees and bushes, ( I wanted to ask about the ocelot, however I remained silent.  My camera was ready.)  One of the trees that amazed me was the mesquite.  The reason it grows so well here is because it's tap root can go down to 200 feet, amazing.  It is known as an invasive species because it hubs like clumps choke out surface vegetation
.  Here is what one early pioneer wrote. [Mesquite is] “the devil with roots. It scabs my cows, spooks my horses, and gives little shade.”  I think he was against it.  Three quarters of all the mesquite grows in Texas 56 million acres.  We were told that it spread north by the early cattle drives,  cattle eating the seeds would spread the seeds on the trail.  Sometimes the trunk appears like it has been burned however we found out this is the sap that turns it black.  We were able to climb a tower to look over the forest. Ruthie even climbed it with her repaired knee. 
   We visited a cemetery in the refuge.  Some of the early settlers were given a grant of land one mile wide and 15 miles long. ( a days mule travel.)  Imagine the danger for these people as the land they owned was fought over, they were indeed in the middle.
    I'm beginning to believe the Ocelot is a mystical creature.
Don't forget to pick up the pig's head on your way home.
     The days at the park were filled with everything from movie night, ( bring your own snack) watching shuffle board tournaments, a park rummage sale, sitting outside enjoying the sun, doughnut day at the park.
    People from the park are always busy doing something, if you are outside someone is bound to stop by like their friend Tom (from Iowa) he usually stops by on his golf cart for a short visit.  He has a Harley trike and several of the residents are now getting into three wheeled adventures.  They have a nice group that goes out on a ride a couple of times a week.  Their next door neighbor Wayne has a pretty red one on order so they can join the group, I hope Gloria likes it.  I hear their are even plans to start a motorcycle-club, with jackets.  We met Shirley and Jerry, their neighbors from the other side, this was a very outgoing group,  one of the couples was from Dresser Wisconsin where our daughter and family live. 
      I can't remember how we got started on the subject.  How does anything start, somebody opened their mouth. Well anyway we were telling them about the time in Arkansas we stopped for a bite to eat and Ruthie was teased about ordering a pronto pup.  The clerk said he had been in 47 states and had never heard such a thing.
          What's a ROPA?  I asked when Sandy mentioned one of the places we were going to visit.  You'll see she said,  I now have been and it is still hard to understand.  The best I can do is, bulk clothing, some new, some over production,( for example the losing football teams championship t shirts that were prepared ahead of time)  but mostly used, recycled clothing.  Banded in a large bale and stored in a ware house.  You can buy clothing by the pound.  It was quite a site.  People come and search thru the piles after the bands have been cut.  There are rows of warehouses filled with Ropa clothing.   My treasure's were some suspenders and a strap for a camera, I had seen enough.  Thank you very much.
      A trip to an Aloe Vera ranch and manufacturing plant named Hilltop gardens was much more soothing.   I remember Sandy saying we had to go down Uncle Peters road to get there.  The gardens were peaceful.  A wide variety of flowers and aloe Vera plants arranged along walking paths.  A welcome break from Ropa and the flea market.
    It turns out Sandy is a "dog on a stick"  aficionado and had the answer to our pronto pup/ corn dog controversy.  As she explains corn dogs have a coating made with a base of corn meal and pronto pups start with flour.  Thank goodness, no more sleepless nights. Now there is only one mystery from this trip, the gravity assisted vehicles from Mulberry Mountain in Arkansas??
     During a break from activities Jerry took me on a private tour of the facilities, an indoor swimming pool, a recreation area with pool table, a complete wood shop, a large community area with massive kitchen area and of course a shuffle board area.  As we circled the park in their golf cart we stopped many times for introductions,  because of the mild weather the residents were out and about by-cycling, walking planting flowers, polishing their motorcycles?  No old people here.  
     Today was going to be another new experience, we were on our way to the jam session up at the community center. I imagined a group of 3-5 people bringing their instruments and a small group of spectators, (probably friends or spouses of the participants, obligated to attend I suspected. )  Maybe a few songs and a sing along.   The bad thing about preconceived conceptions.  You are usually wrong!  Sandy had warned us to start out earlier so we could get a good seat, my first clue was the row of golf carts parked outside and then the parking area filled with cars.  As we entered it was obvious by the excited sound of people visiting and musicians tuning their instruments.  This was going to be an event.  The 150 seat community center was full.   I don't know exactly how they made the arrangement, a entertainer would get up and start their musical contribution and the rest would join in with their instruments.  There were over 30 musicians. They come from local parks to join in, despite aches, pains and yes terminal illness here they are sharing their talents. 
     I think of  a grand child up north somewhere, sitting in school looking out at the frozen ground and drifting snow.  Daydreaming about their grandparents rocking on a porch, maybe knitting, soaking up the warmth of the sun.   Yes Virginia, there are times like that.  But today your Gram-pa is strumming his guitar and singing "if I had to do it all over again, I'd do it with you!" dedicated to his bride of  67 years, maybe your great grandmother is line dancing in the back, ( yes one with the aid of a cane.) and here comes a polka, and here I go, I figured Ruthie couldn't pass up a polka, even with her knee.  We danced a few of the songs and then "man down"  actually it was "woman down"  Ruthie hit my foot. ( I apologize.) and despite both our efforts down she went.  She hurt her hand and pride.  I admire the vitality of this group.  Yup no old people here!
      While we were in Port Isabel one of my posts on Facebook brought a message that we were very close to another classmate that winters in the valley.  I tried calling and then did an email to see if we could see them on this trip. 
    .  No response until today. A phone call.  It turns out they are less than two miles from Alamo Paradise park where we are staying.  As we were already planning our departure the next day we made a quick trip over to pay them a visit.  David and Carol had slipped us into their schedule between park events and a soup supper that was being held in a local park.  All the soup you want for two dollars and BYOB!  We had a nice visit, it was great to see them if only for a short time.  Carol's brother came by to join them for the outing and they needed to be on their way or they wouldn't get a place to sit.
Winter Texan's Jerry and Sandy!
     It was time for us to return to our host park to ready ourselves for our next adventure.  Stillwell's and Big Bend! What's in store for us there?
Thanks Jerry and Sandy for a wonderful time.

Oh yes!   BYOB = Bring your own bowl!